I’m long overdue posting a diary and my recent trip to the Picos is a great opportunity to correct that. Hopefully this diary will inspire you to go there yourself or maybe even join me on a future trip.
This time I am heading to a small village in the Riano Mountain Regional Park in the Picos de Europa. The Picos are a mountain range covering about 12 miles and are part of the Cantabrian mountains in northern Spain. The highest point is Torre de Cerredo around 2.600 meters. At this time of year and at this height it should be cold and snowy with mild spring and summers with temperatures in the mid-20s.
Wildlife thrives in this part of Spain. Cantabrian Brown Bears and wolves roam the hills, valleys and mountains but photographing them is potluck. Birds are plentiful, especially raptors such as Vultures, Golden Eagle and Kites.
Riano also has a healthy population of Wildcat. This beautiful predator generally lives in forests and is predominantly nocturnal. The best chance of seeing them during the day are in August and September when the farmers have cut the grass and the cats come out to hunt for mice. However there are times that the Wildcat can be active during the day in winter. It is one of the reasons why I am heading to this beautiful part of Spain at this time of year. Of course I will also try my luck with other mammals such as Otter and Pine Marten. Let’s also not forget the Golden Eagle, Vultures and many other species.
Friday 26th January
Early pick up at 05.45 for drop off at Gatwick airport. Only Easyjet flies direct from the UK to Bilbao, once a week and only from Gatwick. My flight was due to depart at 08.20 and, after a slightly stressful drive with my normally very reliable driver missing the turn off to Gatwick airport, I arrive in plenty of time.
I arrive in Bilbao around 11. I pick up my rental car from Centaura car rental which I had booked through Easyjet. The drive from Bilbao to Cremenes takes around 3 1/2 hours and I arrive around 16.00. Drop my bag in my room and it’s downstairs for a coffee and a snack. I text my guide for the week, Pablo, to tell him I am here. He stops by later to go over the program for the week. There is a workshop this weekend, so some of the hides are occupied. It’s due to finish lunchtime Sunday. After that I can visit any hide I like, as often as I like.
Saturday 27th January
A relaxed start to the day. Pablo picks me up at 08.30. The weather is beautiful. The hide is a short drive away from Cremenes and soon I am sitting with my camera at the ready. It’s a coming and going of birds such as Great, Blue and Coal tit. The Middle Spotted woodpecker stops by from time to time. All in all, I spend a pleasant couple of hours in the hide. Around 12 Pablo picks me up and takes me back to the hotel. The afternoon is a bit of a waste of time as Pablo is busy with the workshop participants – I am basically confined to the hotel. Tomorrow I will be going to the Golden eagle and Wildcat hide.
Sunday 28th January
Another beautiful day. Pablo picks me up around 8 and instead of going to the Golden eagle hide I end up in the Church hide not far from Cremenes. The hide is mainly for passerines and woodpeckers.
I photograph species like Coal Tit, Rock Bunting, Crested Tit and many more. Iberian Green Woodpecker and Great Spotted show up as well and the surprise visit is from a Treecreeper and a Blackcap! Strange to see the latter as it’s a summer resident. It turned out to be a productive morning. I was back at the hotel by 13.00. Late afternoon I am going to spend an evening in Riano trying to photograph a family of Otters along a fast flowing stream.
On the road late afternoon. The satnav took me completely in the wrong direction and on the way, I was also stopped by the Guardia Civil. After a slight delay I arrive. The canvas hide is in a garden on the edge of a small river. You photograph the otters by artificial lighting as they often arrive after dark. Pablo put bits of fish on a tree trunk and, after an hour or so, the family of 4 Otters arrive. They stay for a good 20 minutes giving ample opportunities to photograph them. For this session a short lens like a 70/200 with a 1.4 converter will work really well. After a 30 minute drive I am back at the hotel for a well-deserved beer.
Monday 29th January
This morning I will be heading to the Golden Eagle and Wildcat hide. Neither have been seen over the last few days so let’s hope today is my lucky day!
The hide is a 15 minute drive away from Cremenes. On the way, as the sun rises over the mountains, I see the most beautiful sky. The iPhone camera comes into its own!
Soon we arrive and, after a 10 minute walk, I settle down in the hide that overlooks a plateau of rocks. There are 2 hides placed next to each other that can comfortably hold 4 photographers with their gear.
Pablo hides bits of meat in between the crags of the rocks. Soon after he leaves, the eagles arrive, followed by a few magpies and jays. It is a very nice setting, and I am able to get some really nice images. After 20 minutes or so the eagles leave and from that time on, it is waiting for the Wildcat…. which doesn’t show! I will get a few other chances to photograph the cat, so I’m not giving up yet.
Back at the hotel for a sandwich and a coffee. Late afternoon I will be trying my luck with Pine Marten, again with artificial light. Let’s hope that it will be a good session.
Unfortunately the Pine Marten didn’t show. That’s the nature of wildlife photography! Back at the hotel I have a quick snack and go to bed. Tomorrow round 2 for the Wildcat.
Tuesday 30th January
Off to the Eagle hide again. Glorious morning and a short drive away if a spectacular hide. Pablo puts some pieces of chicken in the crags of the rock and then the waiting starts! Luckily, I don’t need to wait too long, with the head of a Wildcat appearing after 30 minutes. Fantastic! It stays for well over an hour moving from one side of the rocks to the other. I am able to get many images of this elusive predator. As far as I know this is the only hide in Europe where you stand a good chance of photographing Wildcat.
When the Wildcat finally decides to call it a day, the Golden eagles appear. A Griffon Vulture appears but is soon chased away by the Golden eagles. All in all a truly special morning in glorious sunshine. By midday I’m back in the hotel.
In the afternoon I spend a couple of hours in the Buzzard hide, not far from the hotel. The Buzzards appear in abundance but after 30 minutes they fly off. Back at the hotel I have diner, download my images and go to bed. Tomorrow I will need to drive to Riano, which is 20 minutes from Cremenes. I will be spending the morning in the scavenger hide to photograph Vultures, Kites and, perhaps, a fox. In the afternoon I will have a road trip in the National Park to photograph some landscapes.
Wednesday 31st January
Up a bit earlier. It’s cold but looks like it’s going to be another glorious day weather wise. This morning I am driving to Riano where I will meet Jorge, who will take me to the vulture hide.
The hide is beautifully positioned on a little hill. Jorge puts out food and when he leaves the waiting game begins. After a good hour I see some movement and a beautiful fox appears, stealing bits of chicken that were laid out for the Vultures. The fox comes back several times and allows me to take some really nice images. Finally the Vultures arrive, around 35 of them, and they feast on the chicken. I am not so keen on photographing Vultures on the ground…it gets chaotic, and you end up with a lot of unsharp images. I prefer to concentrate on Vultures coming in to land and taking off.
14.00 Jorge picks me up for a road trip through the Picos National Park. On the way we see Ibex but too high up to take any decent images. We drive close to one of the highest mountains in the park and even at 2500 meters there is no snow. Global warming…….
Thursday 1st February
My last session before driving back to Bilbao. I decide to give the Golden Eagle hide another try and I was not disappointed! The Wildcat and Golden Eagles drop in several times. All in all a great end to a great week!
By 1 in the afternoon I am on the road to Bilbao, it’s about a 3 hour drive. Tomorrow, I fly back to London. It has been a very good week. Great weather and great birds but, the absolute highlight of the week for me, was being able to photograph the Wildcat.
Factsheet Cremenes
I flew with Easyjet to Bilbao from Gatwick. Easyjet only fly one day a week to and from Bilbao (Friday). Vuelling also fly from Gatwick to Bilbao and likely has more travel options. The total cost for flight and car rental (Centaura car rental booked together with my flight through Easyjet) was £265
The drive from Bilbao to Cremenes takes around 3.30 hours and the roads are good and generally quiet. The hotel was comfortable, food was ok and the room a good size. Cost for hotel for a week including breakfast, diner and drinks was Euro 350.
The weather should have been cold and snowy but instead it felt like spring! Nevertheless you should make sure that you have warm clothing, especially in the morning it can still get pretty cold.
Equipment wise I took 2 bodies, a 200-600, 70-200, converters and wide angle lenses for landscapes. The hides are comfortable and most of them are all within the vicinity of Cremenes. The service from the guides (Pablo and Jorge) was excellent. They will get you to and from the hides. Sessions last from around 8.30 till 12.00 and late afternoon till dusk. Of course sessions could commence earlier in spring and summer.
